Wood Frame with Masonry

Detail of Unflanged Window in Wood Frame Wall with Masonry

R-15 Wall

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Head

(Detail 1/3)

Sill

(Detail 2/3)

Jamb

(Detail 3/3)

Notes

This window detail uses a two stage seal to insure no water or air can infiltrate into the building. The exterior seal is installed by applying WRB tape into the rough opening and onto a back dam, and adding a backer rod & sealant joint. No sealant should be applied at the window sill to allow the window to drain.

The interior seal is added by installing another backer rod & sealant joint. Expanding foam or special tapes can be used instead of sealant, however a backer rod should still be installed to prevent the foam from completely filling up the cavity and preventing the system to drain. Plastic shims should be used to level out the window in the rough opening. These shims elevate the window slightly, which creates a space for water the drain.

* Whether or not you need a Class II or III Vapor Barrier depends on your climate zone and location and amount of exterior insulation. Refer to Wall Barriers Notes section below for more info.

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Wood Frame Wall

Design Requirements

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Recommendation & calculations are based on the methods described in the Builder’s Guides from the Building Science Corporation and are only valid for residential occupancies.

Notes

This wall is designed with vapor permeable sheathing. Whether a Class II or Class III Vapor Retarder should be installed depends on the project's climate zone. In Zone 5, a Class III Vapor Retarder, like Latex Paint, can be used if a vented airspace is provided between the sheathing & cladding. In Zone 6 or 7, a Class II Vapor Retarder needs to be installed. Class II Vapor Retarders can be either a separate membrane, like a 'Smart Vapor Retarder' (SVR), or kraft facing on the cavity insulation.

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Smart Vapor Retarder (SVR)

Class II vapor retarders with variable permeance that block vapor in low, but not in high humidity conditions.